Showing posts with label Restaurant Wars. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Restaurant Wars. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

All Stars Restaurant Wars

I LOVE Restaurant Wars. The chefs love it, the judges seem to love it, the fans eat it up. It's the challenge, other than winning the title of Top Chef, that everyone wants to shine. It's bragging rights. So there's a lot of pride on the line for an All Stars Restaurant Wars. Tre and Dale were eliminated for their role in their seasons of Restaurant Wars so there's also the redemption factor. Of the ten remaining chefs, four were on losing teams during their season. No one wants to be a two-time loser for this challenge. Already they've added a new twist by having a five chef team. In the past the most they've gone with is four chefs but I like this change. I think it allows the team to do more than trying to overload four chefs with prepping, cooking and having someone run the front of the house. As for the guest judge, it's our old friend from Top Chef Masters, Ludo Lefebvre. Ludo's here for a reason and that reason is his experimentation with pop-up restaurant experience.


Now this is kinda strange because hasn't this been the premise of Restaurant Wars all along? Create a restaurant for a night? (Don't think, Meat!) Not that I mind, Ludo is always fun although he's more fun when he's trying to cook. Onto team selection. Since Dale won the Quickfire, he has the honor of choosing the head of the other team. This cannot be easier for Dale.


Frankly many a TC Crack Monkey knew right then that it was over for whatever team Marcel put together. I knew why Dale did it but I think as a competition strategy I would have pit myself against my strongest opponent. Getting rid of Marcel is not that great an accomplishment, satisfying though it may have been. Competing head to head against Blaise or Angelo, that would have been classic but sadly it was not to be. So Dale picks Marcel and now Marcel gets to pick first from the remaining chefs to start his team. This is amazing because Marcel gets to make the team his own. Even if he had won the Quickfire, he would have never picked Dale to be on his team. He picks Angelo instead of Blaise because he's already had a bad team experience with Richard and Angelo seems to work fast and clean and easy to get along with. Dale, of course picks Blaise as his first pick. Marcel's next pick is a bit of a mystery, Mike. I would have thought he would have picked Tre. Dale's thinking that too because that's who he picks next. Marcel really let an opportunity slip away by not picking Fabio at this point but picks Antonia instead. You don't have to tell Dale twice as he snaps up Fabio. Marcel is left with Tiffany and Carla to choose between and again, he surprises me with Tiffany. Who is going to make your desserts Marcel? I don't recall Tiffany being all that experienced with desserts. So there are your teams.


It's at this point that Padma reveals the second twist. The Customers will decide the winning team. Down in Blogging Basement Central there was much rejoicing. There was also a little whispered wish that this twist would be permanent to all future Restaurant Wars if only for the minutest chance to see Tom's shiny head truly explode.

The teams split up to do a little planning. Right off the bat, Marcel's team runs into their first problem. Front of House. Because few of the chefs really respect the front of the house role, they look to their weakest chef to plug into that duty. Normally I might agree with them. Unfortunately the diners are deciding your fate this time around and a good front of house person can help your kitchen overcome a lot of problems. A bad one can turn the best food into mud. I get why Team Marcel pushed Tiffany into FOH instead of say, Mike. Mike didn't exactly shine in his expediter role during the Dim Sum Challenge besides his skills on the line should be better than Tiffany's level of experience. Tiffany for the second time during this challenge does not look happy.


Over at Team Dale, they don't even have to worry about this, they've got Fabio. They head straight into the concept design of their restaurant, suggested by Dale, as Bodega. Now I'm sure they didn't mean the Danish use of the word Bodega which means small bar but more of a salute to New York and the corner bodega or small convenience store. There is immediate acceptance of this concept. Back to Team Marcel, getting Tiffany as FOH was the first and last time they all agreed on something. They try and come up with a food focus and sort of settle on Mediterranean but what they all really want to do is nail down their own dish. Instead of trying to work as a team, they are five separate chefs who have been forced to work together. It's not pretty. Back at the loft, the planning continues. Team Dale starts planning dishes that play off their Bodega theme. Team Marcel (without Marcel) decide on Etch as the name of their restaurant. What the name Etch has to do with Mediterranean food doesn't make itself immediately apparent to me but it won't matter if the food is the best they can cook.


The next day finds our chefs arriving at their kitchen for the night. I applaud the producers for this episode. It takes a lot of balls to tempt the weather gods with a outdoor cooking, serving and shooting of this challenge. Much can go wrong shooting any reality show but an outdoors segment where a pop-up shower can make everyone's life miserable? Gutsy.

Work starts on all the dishes. Bodega's food sounds like stuff that would come out of a bodega, chips, bacon/egg and cheese, can of tuna, pork shoulder, blueberry pie and cheesecake. Etch's food is inspired by Mediterranean cuisine. Have you looked at a map of the countries that surround the Mediterranean Sea? Are we talking Northern Africa/Middle Eastern countries? How about the big three, Spain, France and Italy? Or perhaps we're feeling the love for Greece and Turkey? With such a vague influence, I guess anything goes. Eggs and chorizo, fluke crudo, octopus, monkfish, lamb, and ricotta gnudi round out the menu. No dessert is mentioned at this time. Because no one has thought of one?


Ahhhh, it wouldn't be Restaurant Wars without the shiny head of Chef Tom showing up for a little Peek and Prod. Absolutely nothing of interest is learned from his questions however he does reveal that one chef will win and for that win they will receive $10,000. The chefs barely notice, so deep they are into prep and cooking. Tom skulks away.


Time ticks away and Fabio begins his magic on the front of house. Tiffany....struggles with a six minute egg. Angelo makes a reasonable suggestion to leave off Marcel's foam (renamed Air for the purposes of making Marcel seem not so much the Captain of the Good Ship Foam which, for most folks, sailed away a long time ago) to cut down on plating time but Marcel will have none of it. Etch is looking and sounding like a big mess while Bodega is looking like Tranquility Bay.


Service finally starts and the madness begins. All the diners will eat at both restaurants, first one and then the other. It's at the beginning of service that we get a glimpse of old Dale, the Dale with anger management issues, the Dale that sometimes lets the stress get the best of him.


It could have been a nightmare and escalated into even more Dark Dale but not with Fabio there to calm him down. Not only does he calm him down, he keeps himself composed and in charge for his servers and never loses the charm factor he uses on the diners. Frankly he's becoming the Chef Whisperer. Antonia, over on the other side, thinks Etch's food is perfect. That is until the plates start coming back because of undercooked lamb, not to mention the instant dish critique Tiffany gets on her salad from the VIP laden table of Dana Cowin.


Oh look....it's the Judges....who don't get to decide who the winning restaurant is. What's it feel like to have no influence on who wins or loses??? Actually I can totally see Tom doing a little Chicago style voting...early and often.

Service on the Bodega side is flawless. The comments from the diners and the judges are good. I think one diner pinged Richard for putting the tuna in a can making it difficult to eat. That's it. It really doesn't get any better than that. Compared with the Etch dining experience? Not good right from the start, from the hostess not seating the judges, to the forced chattiness with the diners, to the slow pace of food getting to the table. Quick or slow, the food does not help their cause. No winners in their first course of salad and crudo. Back in the kitchen diner complaints about cold dishes and unappetizing food push the chefs into sniping at each other. Second courses do no better than a "like" for the octopus dish and the label of mushy baby food for the monkfish. The next course of ricotta gnudi gets the dread "too salty" for the sauce but praise for the gnudi itself. The lamb chops don't actually get any complaints while the judges are eating them unlike the "dessert" and I only use that term loosely because I still don't get what that last thing with the dry ice was with it's foams and powders.

So is there really any reason to go to Judge's Table? Apparently the only person who thinks they did a bang up job is Marcel even when the Black Hammer tries to bring a little reality into his world, Marcel can't get away from Debby Downer quick enough.


Not to worry Marcel, you'll soon be away from them all. However if ever there should have been a challenge where there was a double elim (or even a triple) this was it. Really, Mike did himself no favors with his performance. Is Marcel a dick? Oh yeah but does that really mean you have to match him dickness for dickness? Did you really have to make it a battle of the Dickiest? I know from where I'm sitting I'd have to call it a draw because if you look at the scorecard that really matters, 17 out of 76 is a massive failure on all levels. Of course it's evident how you earned that scorecard with the team wide bus tossing that played out for Tom and the crew. I don't know how the judges picked the losing-est of losers but they settled on Marcel, more than likely because he just doesn't have the people skills to get people that don't respect him to do what he wants. Etch unwittingly makes a deep mark in Top Chef history by getting totally whooped up on by Bodega and Richard Blaise, winner of All Stars Restaurant Wars. I suspect we have seen the last of Marcel and his love of foams, at least on Bravo. Can't vouch for the SciFi Channel.

Thursday, January 20, 2011

And the Winner is....

Holy cow that was a Restaurant Wars for the ages? Two teams of five, an awesome twist of the letting the customers decide whose food was better and yet another guest judge with accent thicker than Marcel's head. My question for the morning after for once doesn't have to do with the chef who was auffed last night. No, we all knew that was coming the moment Dale chose Marcel as his opposing team leader. What I have an issue with is who was awarded the win and $10,000.


Now if you've read this blog long enough you know I'm not a great fan of Chef Blaise. It has to do with some issues that happened during his season, his reliance on cutesy name play with his dishes but the biggest issue I've had with him is that he felt he was really the winner of his season, that somehow he lost for some other reason than he got out-cooked. I don't deny the man has skills and those skills were rocking on all cylinders during this episode. With all that in mind, I still would not have awarded the win to him. Nope instead I would have given it to...


..this guy. Fabio totally kicked ass in his many roles for Restaurant Wars. Now there's a mistaken belief that when you put something out front for Restaurant Wars, they get auffed. In the seven previous seasons, that's only happened twice. The reason why we tend to believe this is because the judges harp so much on front of house service performed by chefs. So it only seems fair to me that sparkling front of house service should have been rewarded. Just compare the two chef's performances in that role. Tiffany failed on cooking eggs, totally screwed her asparagus dish, and was not exactly well versed in her front of house role. In all honesty, Mike would have been better at front of house but he didn't volunteer. Fabio on the other hand set up his restaurant, fully prepped his waitstaff, most likely greeted every guest, and helped with food prep. When Dale started freaking out a bit at start of service, who was it that calmed him down and made things run smoother? Not Richard. It was Fabio. How was Fabio's contribution to the menu? Well, he made a dessert. We all know that desserts are the kiss of death in Top Chef. How was his dessert? Apparently one of his best offerings so far in this competition and totally melded with the rest of the menu. So while Richard did a good job as his self appointed role of technical adviser (????) I think the real winner was Fabio. So I'm awarding him $10,000 in Karmic Kitchen Bucks (actual value - Doodly Squat) for the fantastic job he did for Restaurant Wars.

What was the point?


Is anyone else getting the impression that Dana Cowin's appearances are...sort of.....throw aways? What was the point of her involvement in this episode? Anyone?

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Out of His Hands

That was a Restaurant Wars for the ages. Lots more talk about this Restaurant Wars in the days to come but one great improvement....letting the Customers decide, not just vote, but decide who wins the Challenge. Of course, not everyone seemed happy with this twist.

It was certainly worth it to see Tom Colicchio squirm while contemplating that he would not be in control of the outcome. Too bad it wasn't a closer contest. Tom needn't have worried.

It's Baaaaaack.....

restaurant wars

Who will fall tonight in Restaurant Wars? Will Tre freeze up? Will Marcel annoy everyone else to the point of getting eliminated? Will Dale have to call upon his Anger Management Training? Watch Tonight!!!

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Restaurant Wars - The Blue Team

Coming out of the Quickfire, seeing who made up the Blue Team I thought they were a lock to easily win this thing. I thought at the very least they would make it close. Not even close. So what went wrong? They immediately start their 30 minute planning allotment by playing it safe. They jettison the dessert course. Their logic is that since most desserts fail during Restaurant Wars, they weren't even going to try. Hmmmm, half of me agrees, most of the time I've filled up on such great food I'm too full for dessert. The other half realizes that it's still America and America loves her sugar. Plus there's Tom who is sure to point out how risky it is to not do dessert. That settles it, if it pisses off Tom, I'm all for it. Next decision has Laurine volunteering to take the Front of House responsibility.
Hmmmmm....could be problematic.....because Laurine is not exactly...dynamic. But here's the problem. Mike I. would probably work great out in the front of house but can Laurine handle being on the line? We all know the service comes very quickly and the weeds have never seemed so thick. It seems a safer bet to put her out front.
Shopping for the Blue Team, aside from getting pushed from Faux Momma, is boring. Back at the condo?The back of the house decides on a name, Mission. Without Laurine. DUN DUN DUUUUNNNN (unless she's there and I just don't see her?). They also revisit the dessert gamble and continue to play it safe. The next day's three hour prep seems to start uneventfully.Why shouldn't it? Kevin and Jen have been rock solid in the kitchen, Mike I. does better when paired up with someone with better instincts and Laurine, while not in the top four, seems dependable.Anyone else blown away by the menu or is it just me who thinks it's....safe? Boring and safe for a team that has Kevin and Jen on it. Not only that, they are slow. So slow that they are way behind. Laurine breaks away to prep for service. It's here, with Tom's walkabout, that she makes a fatal mistake.People! You don't have to talk that much to the man. Is it so worth the face time to say something you might regret later?
Jen, on the other hand, totally knows how to deal with him. Which is as little as possible.
Suddenly all of Restaurant Mission's time is up and these people are hungry.Bet they'd like a nice glass of Pellegrino. No time for that now, it's time for the Judges and our First Courses.

Asparagus and Six-Minute Egg

Arctic Char Tartare

Normally when dishes are presented, the hostess describes what's in the dish. Laurine didn't feel this was necessary so if my dish descriptions are a little light, blame Laurine.Great! Now she's gone and pissed off Padma. It doesn't get better with a bland tartare and boring asparagus. Do these restaurants not have salt and pepper on the tables? Or was this the Judges passive aggressive way of pinging Mike for under seasoning his dish? Not that it matters because they waited so long for their next course they forgot all about the first courses.No wonder Laurine stayed away from their table. Back in the kitchen......looks like there's a bit of equipment malfunction going on in Mission's kitchen. It can't help Jen's cause nor is Laurine able to pacify the hungry masses. Finally the main courses arrive but even Padma realizes that she's going to have to drag the dish information out of Laurine.

Trout with Brown Butter Emulsion, Hazelnuts & Braised Endive

Alaskan Halibut with Mussels, Clams & Saffron Aioli in Consommé

Both of Jennifer's dishes fail to impress the judges. Considering how long they took to get to the table and the weakness of the dishes, I start sweating that my early season pick to win the whole thing was going the way of Tre Wilcox. But it's not like Kevin or Micheal are taking up any slack. Kevin can't seem to find a happy medium to cook the Laurine's lamb dish.

Lamb with Carrot Jam, Green Bean Salad and a Morel Mushroom Sauce


Pork Three Ways, Glazed Pork Belly, Pork Sausage, Cornmeal Mousseline & Red-Eye Gravy

The lamb dish is blasted for it's rare state. Kevin's pork is the only dish that is granted a grain of faint praise. Toby mourns the loss of his dessert but considering some of past Restaurant Wars desserts, perhaps Toby should quit while he's ahead (no, really, quit).
Disaster. For chefs so talented, a complete disaster. Planning, execution, , menu selection. The real question is who goes home?
Do you get rid of the leader of the team and who's two dishes failed? Who perhaps overestimated her own ability to clear the weeds? Do you get rid of Kevin who couldn't execute Laurine's dish, fell back on his strength, pork dishes? He was also in on the decision to punt on dessert. How about Michael? If you can't season a simple tartare and can't come up with something better than roasted asparagus with a six minute egg dish for Restaurant Wars, do you deserve to stay? As for Laurine, what ever experience she's had running front of house left her woefully unprepared for this episode.

In the end it's Laurine who is takes an auffing for the Blue Team. She takes it well, much better than Kevin who shows a little bit of unresolved anger but we're left to wonder exactly why. Maybe he'll explain why in the beginning of the next episode. So put another Restaurant Wars in the books folks. It was a good one.

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Restaurant Wars - The Red Team

So. Restaurant Wars. This is what I love about this challenge. Sometimes what you get is not ever what you expected. Coming out of the Quickfire, the Blue Team so confident that they let a sure $10,000 in cash go in the hopes of rolling it into $40,000. Sometimes that's the price you pay for overconfidence. We'll get to them soon enough. I want to talk about the Red Team or Revolt (with the E backwards) because without even stepping into the kitchen by all rights this team should have been called Dysfunction.
Here's your team, the Battling Brothers Voltaggio, Whiny Baby Eli and Faux Momma, Robin. Does it not have disaster written all over it? First let's review the parameters: 30 minutes to plan a three course meal, then $3000 and one hour to shop at Whole Foods and Restaurant Depot. A change this season, no one has to decorate their restaurant (thank goodness) because either A) there are no Pier One stores in Vegas or B) no one expected Pier One to still be in business once they got to this challenge or C) No gay guys left to slough off the flower arranging duties. They are also responsible for Front of House and Service and whomever does FOH still has to come up with and execute one dish. So the Red Team starts their planning and not five minutes in it starts.Best line of Red Team planning: Can you make your ganache not grainy...? The brothers may have each other's back but they still reserve the right to poke each other with a sharp stick, this sharp stick being Robin's Apple Crisp to Bryan's Grainy Chocolate Ganache. Done with the pokery, they move onto Shopping.Faux Momma has apparently given Baby Eli tasks that hopefully he can handle, like driving the cart and sending age appropriate (for him) product pimpage text messages.Guess Sprint's still in business enough to buy the big Top Chef Pimp. Meanwhile Faux Momma loses her mind over having her Pellegrino strategy copied by the Blue Team.Little did she know that all the Pellegrino in the world would not be able to save some people. Shopping done, it's back to the house for Project Top Chef Runway.
Dang, I'm guessing the Cocktail Dress didn't come with a matching set of diapers so it was nixed. Thanks anyway Tim Gunn.Three hours to prep before service is about the right time for Michael's Mr. Control Freak Hyde to emerge. Robin takes the brunt of his heavy hand but not even Bryan is immune.Revolt's menu is looking spectacular. Wide range of proteins and preparations and a fun dessert. Can they pull it off without killing each other?Service starts and already the restaurant's name is causing some confusion. Maybe it's a puzzle game to work on while your food is coming? While the diners try and suss it out, the Big Guns arrive. I think Padma stole Eli's cocktail dress and added some fringy shoes?Still, I'll have to admit she looks mighty fine in it. After more nit picking the restaurant name, Revolt's first course hits the table.

Smoked Arctic Char with Beet Sauce, Horseradish Cream and Potato Chip

Chicken and Calamari 'Pasta', Tomato Confit and Fennel Salad

Beautiful First Course servings of Char prepared by Eli and an interesting chicken preparation by Michael. The chicken gets raves especially from Tom who wants to eat all the serving instead of saving some for Padma. You know Padma's not having any of that noise. OK maybe Tom's a wee bit smarter than I generally give him credit for. Still, he did think Padma might give some back after he passed it her way? Snort! The Char, while beautiful, gets pinged for being one dimensional. Time for Main Courses. Well, maybe not time yet. While they never say, apparently there was too much time waiting between the first and the main course.

Duo of Beef, Braised Short Rib and Prime NY Strip Steak with Sunchoke Puree

Cod with Parsley Sauce with Mussel Billi-Bi Croquette and Zucchini Tenderloin

The cod gets the nod from Rick Moonen but no one talks about the Billi-Bi Croquette. So I will. Because I easily confess my ignorance I googled Billi-Bi and discovered that while there is a Danish boot designer named Billi Bi......Billi-bi in culinary terms is a French soup made from mussel stock, white wine, shallots, butter and cream. This dish caused a bit of tussle between the brothers when Bryan exploded a serving of croquettes and Michael had (really, demanded) to re-do the serving. I point this out not only because not serving a poorly executed dish is sometimes more important than getting to the diner quickly but because Michael gets a little heated and we hear the beep machine covering some of his juicier complaints. He may be a control freak but it was his dish and having that little croquette of creamy mussel goodness melt at the table is worth the extra effort. However it looks like Bryan's duo of beef is not as hot as it could be and Toby finds the sauces bland.Back in the kitchen, Michael apparently does not have enough to do so he micromanages the appearance of Robin's dessert. Robin, finally pushed to her limit, pushes back and gets her own beep machine montage. Michael, thinking cursing is restricted to just himself, warns her not to curse at him again. Bryan jumps in to break it up but Robin and Michael continue sparring until Michael decides the best way to get Robin to now relax is to yell Relax over and over again at her. Has he any problems with how her dessert tastes?


Pear Pithivier with Frangipane, Vanilla Ice Cream and Elderflower Syrup

Chocolate Ganache with Spearmint Ice Cream and Chocolate Tuiles

Must taste good because the judges eat them both up, giving Robin props for making her best dish yet and loving Bryan's Ganache.

What did the judges think of Eli's Front of House duties? He seems to have handled it quite well, apologetic when necessary, clear and concise with his dish descriptions and showed just the right amount of badgering to the back of the house to get those plates moving.

Back in the Stew Room, the Red Team works on their Under Bus Strategy.

They needn't have worried. They get the first call to Judge's Table and we all know what that means.Hugs instead of bus wheels. Now, for me, it gets a little stupid. You see Tom had to ruin it all with his Best Restaurant Wars restaurant ever comment and here's why. It may well have been the best food prepared for Restaurant Wars but to compare it against the five other seasons of Restaurant Wars is pure bullshit. This was absolutely the easiest, non-twist, no raw space challenge ever. You better hope you get better food but if you want to let all those chefs from past seasons come back and compete in Rick Moonen's sweet Las Vegas set up, with the well placed kitchen, beautiful decor and no bloggers planted in the dining section to throw nasty snark at the efforts of your chefs, fantastic, do it. Until then you sure as shit don't sound like you know what you're talking about because it sounds like a huge insult to those past chefs who helped make Restaurant Wars such a great challenge. Don't get me wrong, I'm as happy as a clam not having chefs attempt to be interior designers or have some crazy twist thrown at them. It's enough to start up their own restaurant and develop a cohesive menu in basically one day. To reward these four chefs with that kind of compliment is just more of lazy, sound bite pronouncements from Tom. Gee, what's new?

So Michael is named the over all winner of Restaurant Wars. But wait, there was one little twist......the Blue Team's $10,000 prize now goes to Michael. Happily he decides to share his winnings with his teammates which is pretty generous. Happily for me, his brother Bryan can't contain his anger at Michael's unprofessional behavior and tells him to keep his share of the money. I love family dynamics mixed with high tension stress. I feel like there's a wedgie right around the corner, just waiting for one of them.

Next up: Self Inflicted Wedgies.