Top Chef Masters A Seat At the Table

Before we get too deep into Top Chef Las Vegas I wanted to take one last look at the Finale of Top Chef Masters. Talking about all the food that the chefs produced was a daunting task especially if you weren't at the table. So I decided to reach out to someone who was. Chef Harold Dieterle, our first Top Chef, was kind enough to take time from his busy schedule at Perilla to give some insight as to what it was like having a seat at the table for the Top Chef Masters Finale.

KK: Harold, it's wonderful to talk to you again. As always we have to check in on your baby, Perilla. What's tickling the palates of Perilla's diners?

HD: Just having fun cooking for people, the menu and food program are constantly evolving. We have alot of talented people in the restaurant right now putting their heart and soul into the food.KK: How rough has it been keeping a fairly new restaurant running in such choppy economic waters?

HD: No matter what the state of the economy, it's always challenging. It's important to everyone to be inspired and focused. We're doing really well and beginning to think about new projects.

KK: Any strategies to keep the regulars while attracting new customers?

HD: We actually participated in New York Restaurant week this year. I think it helped bring some folks in that might find our usual price points a bit too steep or don't usually dine downtown.

KK: Before being asked to attend the Top Chef Masters Finale, had you eaten in any of the finalists restaurants?

HD: I had never eaten in any of their restaurants, I did have an event in Napa a week after the finale. So I did eat at Michael's place.

KK: Did you know ahead of time who the three finalists would be?

HD: I didn't know who the 3 chefs were going to be. I was just excited to be there.

KK: Was there a dish from that night that you would want to "borrow" for folks back home?

HD: Not really...the food was all really awesome.. but when you find your style you stick with it, my style is so different from all 3 of the masters.

KK: Chef Bayless's mole sauce seems to have been the superstar of the night. Do you have a similar dish that was your culinary inspiration?

HD: No I don't think I have ever eaten something that made me want to be a chef....I've eaten things in Thailand that I've been obsessed to recreate.

KK: Pretty gutsy move by Chef Chiarello to plate a dish with burned pages from James Osland's magazine. James did make it home safely that night, yes?

HD: Yea...I thought it was pretty hilarious.. but I suppose James had the last laugh with the poor star grades he gave Michael later, which I personally didn't agree with.

KK: The one dish that seemed most out of step with the whole theme of excellence as the focus of Top Chef Masters was Chef Chiarello's fish dish. From a viewer's standpoint, it looked very heavily breaded and simplistic without the sophistication we've come to expect. How was it?

HD: Well it was hard to eat....I don't think he had the plate selection he would have liked. It was my least favorite dish of the entire meal. At the same time, it's a good thing he moved out of South Florida and went to Napa to developed his style. He cooked my favorite dishes of the night.

KK: What dish was your favorite?

HD: Michael's braised short ribs.

KK: What dish sparked the most discussion between you and your fellow critics?

HD: I think it was funny how Hubert was talking about using humble cuts of meat in our current economic environment, such as the sweetbreads and beef cheeks. Then shaves black truffles over the top...I thought that was pretty funny.

KK: The judging was really close. Did you find yourself agreeing with the final scoring or would you have had a different winner?

HD: I thought they all did an amazing job. I had Michael edging out Rick.

KK: Putting your Top Chef producer's hat on for just a moment, what Master-like "twist" would you have given the chefs in their last challenge?

HD: I don't think I would have. When you make it to the finals you have earned the right to cook your food without any restrictions

KK: While I enjoyed seeing what those 3 finalists brought to the challenge, I was most sad that Anita Lo didn't make it to the end, not because it was an all male finale but because I was so hoping to see what incredible Asian dishes she would have kicked out, free of any restrictions or twists. Was there a chef you were hoping would be in the finale that wasn't there?

HD: I too would have liked to see Anita Lo in there. I've eaten her food at Annisa several times and she is legit.

KK: Thanks so much for giving us a bit of your time and sharing with us your experience of the food that night. As always we remain some of your biggest fans and we certainly loved getting to see you again on the little screen.

HD: My pleasure ladies.

Happy Cinco De Mayo!

The Junkie's will be celebrating with a dinner of caldo de camarone, arroz con pollo, carne asada, black beans, homemade tamales and tortillas, and a tres leches cake (from a family recipe compliments of Charlus!)

If any of our readers are celebrating, please let us know what your feast will be!

Also, we send our congratulations to Chef Harold Dieterle - today is the first anniversary of the opening of his restaurant, Perilla!

Interview With Chef Harold Dieterle of Perilla

Last May 5th, Chef Harold Dieterle, along with partner Alicia Nosenzo, opened Perilla NYC. With just a month to go until the one year anniversary, we thought it would be fun to check in with Harold to see how things have been going...

Harold! Perilla has been open for almost a year now, and the reviews just keep getting better! What's your secret?

No secret really. Staff is getting stronger and more passionate. Everyone is really doing a great job. Just really trying to cook soulful food people will enjoy.

Once you began planning Perilla, exactly how long was it before you actually opened the doors?

The concept itself was the easier part. Its took roughly a year to raise the money. Then another 3 months to find the space.

How much did the restaurant change between what you originally imagined to what it is now?

I feel like the restaurant changes every day. I feel like the budget we opened on is a reflection of our resourcefulness.

What has been your high point since opening? Your low point?

Getting the doors open was huge. As far as low points -- the rare occasion that we don't meet guests expectations. I'm not really much of an emotional roller coaster. Always try and look at situations as half full.

What do you enjoy most about your work? What are your greatest stresses? Your greatest joys?

It's really nice waking up in the morning and just cooking whatever I'm in the mood to cook. The menu and specials are a total extension of my current cooking tendencies. Its nice to be the boss. That being said I don't think that anything is more stressful then managing people.

What has been the most surprising thing about running your own restaurant?

It's never a dull moment. There is always something happening that is unexpected, be it positive or negative.

We know that your menu changes seasonally, and that you offer daily specials, as well as a brunch -- where does your inspiration come from?

My ideas come from such random places. Anywhere from traveling, modern plays on classics. Childhood reinterpretations. Most likely lately the food I've been cooking is ingredient driven. Just let each individual ingredient dictate how it is prepared.

Speaking of inspiration, who have been the biggest inspirations to your career success?

From an integrity standpoint as a person, definitely my parents. Both are tremendous role models. On being a chef and restaurateur, my last three chefs have all brought various strengths and weaknesses that have rounded me out to where I am today.

Any amusing kitchen incidents that you can share with us?

Yeah. Just about every day something crazy happens. Tried making some squid ink soba noodles yesterday. The buckwheat flour wasn't being nice to me. After I made the dough and let it rest it felt and looked like a lead ball on the table.

We know that restaurant staffing can be problematic -- how long did it take you to get just the right staff balance?

Staffing is a constant challenge. The kitchen is very solid right now. I am lucky that Alicia is a fantastic teacher, the staff really responds to her service style.

Has the Top Chef frenzy that initially surrounded you died down a bit, or are you still stopped for autographs and photos?

I would say it has lightened up a bit. But its still nice to hear that we have helped people become passionate about food.

Are there any culinary trends that people expect, but that drive you absolutely crazy?

I like to see food on the plate. After eating three courses my feeling is that a guest should be full. Not feel the need to go grab a slice of pizza afterwards.

How did you like being on the judges side of the table during the Almost Famous Chef competition in Napa?

It was fun being on the other side. I really enjoy critiquing food and just seeing what my palate can pick up. It was tough though, seeing the kids making mistakes that you know they won't realize for another year.

Since opening, have you ever been in the position of having to run the front of the house? If so, how was that?

No way! My place is in the kitchen.

How did you and Alicia meet, and what made you decide to go into business together?

We worked together at the Harrison. I have always respected her; it was great to see the vision we had for a business together was so similar.

How much input does Alicia have in the menu area?

Well, quite a bit. I usually a write a menu, go through the tasting of each dish, then she gets to play devils advocate.

How do you organize your recipes, i.e., computer, recipe file, little scraps of paper?

In my head.

Is there any one dish on your menu that you consider to be your "signature"?

Anything duck related. My New Year's Day "lucky duck" tasting menu was terribly fun. Six savory ducks courses.

Have there been any dishes you put on the menu that you were unsure of, but that took off like wildfire? Conversely, is there a dish that you thought would really take off that failed?

Yes. We're currently doing "Cheek Du Jour". Using all different fish and meat cheeks, and changing the preparation daily. People are really into it. There are dishes that I come up with all the time that I think people will dig, but are not well received. No one specific dish is coming to mind. There have been a handful, though.

What are some of the qualities that you feel a successful chef should have?

Compassion, a teacher, fearless, business oriented, stubborn, good cook.

Have you considered expanding, or opening another restaurant?

I'd like to do a different concept. I'll let you know when I have something "in stone" to report.

Is there a Perilla cookbook in our future?

I'd like to put pen to paper at some point. Don't think I'd call it the Perilla cookbook, though. Cookbooks are very time consuming, and I would never pay someone else to test my recipes.

Is there anything else you can tell us about yourself, your career, or the profession that might be helpful to others aspiring to enter the culinary field?

Pay your dues, don't get into cooking or culinary school to be on TV. You gotta love it.

In September of 2006, you blessed our original blog with its first interview, and the infamous "Harold Dieterle underwear question" was born. Since this is a follow up, we have to ask -- Has success changed your style, or are you still going commando in the kitchen? (And have you thought about marketing "Perilla" boxers with a stubby pencil pocket???)

Hahaha! Stubby pencil. Gonna leave that one alone.

What will you be doing to celebrate Perilla's first anniversary?

A Cinco de Mayo party.

Harold, we'd better let you get back to work! Thanks so much for taking the time to chat with us! We wish you continued success, and can't wait to taste your cooking!

Thank you for all the love and support.

Harold and Ted and Martha...

The original "Top Chef", Harold Dieterle, Chef/Owner of Perilla restaurant will appear on The Martha Stewart Show this afternoon...On the menu? Spicy duck meatballs with mint cavatelli. And speaking of Perilla, guess where The New York Post caught up with Top Chef Chicago judge Ted Allen???